Day 6 - The Gables to Gibson Steps

 19.9 Km
 
This was a far easier and more enjoyable day than yesterday. It was raining when we woke up but it had stopped before breakfast at 0700 at the Waves Café. The bus was packed with our cases and at 0810 we left for a photo session at the 12 Apostles (apparently better to take the photos in the morning due to the angle of the sun).  Just as we were arriving at the 12 Apostles visitor centre one of the walkers said she had left her backpack behind. This raised all sorts of comments and laughter (the guides handled it really well). While she was driven back to the hotel the remainder of us walked around the 12 Apostles viewing area. The weather was cold with a stiff breeze and it started to drizzle as we finished the tour.  The bus arrived at about 0915 with the woman and her backpack. One of the guides had written in the dirt on the side of the bus under where the woman sat (the woman knew about it and was happy with it).
 

The bus drove us to The Gables car park where we finished yesterdays walk. The weather was still a bit unpredictable and there was the ever present chance of rain. We started todays walk at 0952 and first we went to the Gables lookout; these are some of the highest coastal cliffs in Australia. The walk then backtracked a bit before starting back on the track. Three of us didn't walk today and they returned to the bus while the rest of us continued on. We went through inland scrub areas (needed to do boot washing and sanitising at a few places to prevent fungal spread in the park). The terrain was undulating and a lot easier than yesterday. The ground was good walking and there were quite a few wooden bridges and boardwalks, some of which were a tad slippery. We made our way through the national park for 4.5km to the Devils Kitchen campsite. We stopped here at the shelter for morning tea at 1105. As we got there it started to pelt with rain and there was also hail (typically this only lasted about 10 minutes before it stopped) but we managed to stay dry in the shelter. It did not rain much for the rest of day which was a relief.
 

At Devils Kitchen Campsite

After a quick break we set off again at 1125 towards the lunch stop. The track continued through similar scrub as before the break but after about 2Km it came out on top of the cliffs and then followed the coastline for about another 6 Km before heading back inland alongside the Gellibrand River. The track along the cliff tops and to the lunch stop was a mix of firm ground, sand or grass (the sand wasn't too hard to walk in). 
 

Gellibrand River

 
At 1325 (13 Km into the walk) we arrived at the Princetown Camping Reserve where we stopped for lunch. Katie was waiting for us with the bus, along with a couple of walkers who were ahead of us, and the lunch stuff was laid out and ready to go. This was a pleasant stop and the camping area is extensive with good facilities. One other walker decided he would finish there and take the bus (he had done an amazing job getting as far as he had); we were now down to 10 walkers.
 
Lib and I plus a couple of others headed off again at 1410. About 500 metres along the road we crossed the river on the road bridge, turned inland again and up a small hill. Very soon after turning off the road there was an echidna trying to hide on the side if the track (not doing a good job of it). The track continued inland from the coast for a couple of kilometres before once again following the top of the cliffs along the coast. The views of the coastline from here were amazing. We got really close to a second echidna which gave up trying to hide (must have realised that it had been spotted). There were quite a few steps and boardwalks along this section and the terrain was undulating but with no really steep sections.

 

At the 17Km mark the track was predominately downwards which was a pleasant change. A few hundred metres from our meeting point we could see the raised lookout platform and a few of our walkers already there. At the 19Km mark we turned left off the track and 5 metres later we were there, the Great Ocean Walk lookout, the finish. We were cheered in by Lee and the other walkers. There were smiles all round and we cheered on the remaining walkers as they came in. The guides opened a couple of bottles of bubbles in celebration (a really well deserved drink for all of us). A group photo was taken (there is a stand there for setting up cameras for selfies) and then we continued for the last 600 metres to the bus and the official end of the walk (to my surprise this is about 900metres before the 12 Apostles visitor centre). 

The Finish - at last

We left for Melbourne at about 1620 and drove back via Colac where we stopped for dinner just before 1800. Most of us had dinner from the Noodle Café  which Katie recommended. The owners of the café cooked the individual meals really quickly and I don't think any of us had to wait more than 5 minutes to get a feed. We were on our way again at about 1840 and the bus stopped at a truck stop to drop off the 5 walkers from Geelong and Barwon Heads where they were being picked up by family. There a delay as one of the drivers got lost and could not find the truck stop; not to worry as we stayed in the bus where it was warm.
 
Lib and I were dropped off at the Langham Hotel at about 2015; this was a suggestion from Katie as we were more likely to get a cab from there. We were home just after 2100. The adventure was over.
 

Day 5 - Melanesia Gate to The Gables

17.5 Km

  

Breakfast at 0700 in the Waves Cafè. Good breakfast of home made beans; great choice before a walk. Bus left at 0820 with 2 less walkers. Today is the most challenging section of the walk and 2 walkers decided to give it a miss (probably a good call on their behalf as they have not been feeling ok for a couple of days).

  

We were driven back to where we finished yesterday and started walking at 0915. The first couple of Km were down hill into Ryan's Den. The track was slippery and it didn't help that it rained on us for about 30 minutes.  There is a hut at the back of the beach which was built after WW1 and the family still owns it (driving in and out must be a nightmare as the track is steep and deeply rugged).

  

  

   

By the time we got to the beach the rain had stopped.  We walked about 300 metres along the beach and then started the long and sometimes very steep assent to where we were going to meet the bus for the first checkpoint. The rain kept coming at about 10 to 15 minute intervals. About 6Km into the day we met Katie at the intersection of Ryan's Den Track.  A couple of Fisheries inspectors were making their way back to their 4x4 and stopped to chat.  One Walter decided he did not feel confident to continue on the next section as it was the worse section of the track (good call by him) so he and Lee, the first guide,  bludged a lift with Fisheries back to the tour bus in the top car park. The rest of us trudged on to Ryan's Den campsite, guided by Katie, where we stopped for lunch at about 1150. The weather was crap, raining at about 10 minute intervals which meant I overheated in my rain jacket while trying to climb hills. We met other groups of walkers at the campsite and we had lunch in the shelter (there was also a toilet there and apparently it had a view of over the coastline).

  

We got moving again at about 1220. The track from here was still going predominately up and was slippery. The downhill sections were really slippery and quite treacherous. Lib and I lagged behind the others as we were slower and more cautious walkers in the really bad conditions. Clay mud was thick on our boots so every step could resulted in a slip. The vegetation varied from eucalypt to ti-tree and sheoak to ferns; I was more concerned about the slippery conditions.  It seemed like every time we got to a crest the path would then descend and go up even higher a few hundred metres later. It was a really tough slog and Lib and I think it was the hardest bit of walking we have done.  This section was 8Km of really hard walking. 

  

  

We arrived at Moonlight Bay car park to meet the bus and told the driver we had decided to continue on the last 4.5Km planned section to end the day. This was a total change from the previous section as we went through a Forrest of last gums (there was a boot cleaning station at each end of it). Apart from a few hills the track now more or less followed the contours so it wasn't difficult. We arrived back at the bus at the Gables car park at 1540. One other walker and guide arrived about 2 minutes after us. We have never before been so pleased to finish a day's walk. 

 

On the way back to Port Campbell the bus stopped at Loch And Gorge where we got off the bus and voted the rock forensics and learnt about the wreck of the Loch Ard in 1878.

 

We arrived back at our accommodation at about 1730. While changing out of our walking stuff Lib and I both found big, fat leeches. I had been bitten in a couple of places but no flowing blood so it must have been a while since the leech had dropped off after its feed. Just something else to add to challenge of the day. 

 

Dinner was at 1900 at the 12 Rocks restaurant; great meal and good charts with the other walkers. Tomorrow is our last day on the walk and it will be a fairly big day. 

  

  

Day 4 - Castle Cove to Melanesia Gate

16.0Km

 

Breakfast at 0700. We said goodbye to Frank the chef and Evy the dog.  Bags were collected at 0830 and we made our way to the start of today's walk at Castle Cove. Cold start to the day with the blowing quite strongly. After the group photo we set off at about 0910. 

 

The walk started on an uphill section following the cliff tops and it went through various types of vegetation including a great section of grass trees. There were a couple foot cleaning stations to prevent the spread of a fungas that destroys the native vegetation. We stopped at a lookout above Dinosaur Cove where Lee, the guide, told us about the fossils that have been doing there. From here we started a downhill walk to the Johanna Bay.

  

 

5Km into the walk we came to Johanna Beach and started the 2.5Km walk along the beach. A few people took their boots off to walk on the sand but Lib and I kept ours on. The going wasn't too bad as the sand was fairly firm, although it was still hard work on the legs. There was a little penguin on the beach that had been washed up after the storm, I reckon it was waiting for the tide to come in and help it out to get back out to sea. A creek crossing towards the end of the beach posed no problems; most of the others took their boots off but Lib and I noticed it wasn't very deep so crossed where we thought it was at it's shallowest. No water in the boots but it was a close call as the creek was flowing quickly. 

 

 

We met the second guide, Katie, at the exit from the beach to the camping ground and we made our way to the bus for lunch. At about 1230 we were met by Richard, an indigenous elder, who took us on a guided tour along the track for about an hour. He was very informative about the area, the history and the environment. He is passionate about his heritage and educating people about how best to manage the land. 

 

The track continued inland and we met up with the bus again. The next section was 5Km of predominantly up hill so a few walkers opted to B.O.B (Back On Bus), Lib and I continued to walk. We walked with Katie and the going was hard but we were able to do it at our own pace. We met the bus at the top of the hill and decided to keep walking to the end of the days walk, another 2Km. On the way we passed Bert, a stature of a sea captain in a 'toll booth'. The booth provided hikers with water and for a gold coin you could buy some home made jam (yep Lib bought some).

 

 

We finished at the bus at about 1540. Lib and I were the last ones in but we were not far behind the others. There were beers and cider on hand before we all got on the bus and headed to Port Campbell where we checked into the motel at about 1700.

 

Dinner was at the local pub which was really busy for a Tuesday night. The meal was huge (I didn't finish it) and we all had a great time. 

 

Tomorrow is going to be the most challenging day, it'll be interesting to see how it goes. 

 

 

Day 3 - Point Franklin to Castle Cove

21.8 Km

Slightly later start today (extra half hour sleep in). After breakfast we were driven back to where we finished yesterday. We set off at around 0900 and walked the 3 Km to the Cape Otway lighthouse.  This walk went along the top of the cliffs through ti-tree arches and coastal vegetation. It was an easy enough walk to start the day. The views of the coastline were amazing and the sea was still a bit rough but quieter than yesterday. The rain started about 30 minutes into the walk but didn't last long (thankfully that was the last rain for the day).

  

  

We arrived at the lighthouse just before 1000 and jumped the queue as a tour group when it opened. As part of the walk we were treated to a tour of the area by a local guide, Mark, who had been born at the light station. He was a real character and told us about growing up in this isolated area (he was one of 12 kids). Mark also gave us an insight to the history of Bass Straight and operations of the lighthouse. We managed to get to the top of the lighthouse and this time Lib was ok with being outside on the decking at the top but I was not the happiest camper up there. 

 

 

The tour lasted nearly 90 minutes and we met back at the bus,  parked on the car park, for morning tea before heading off to Aire River camping ground.  This was a long 10Km over the cliff tops through varied vegetation and over numerous undulations (one snake sighting ahead of its). The ground underfoot ranges from compressed dirt,  to loose stones and then there was deep sand on the final downhill leg to the river.  The views along this section were stunning with the sea crashing into the coast. The weather was warming up and there wasn't a lot of shade on this section so it was a bit heavy going but ok.

After managing to find the bus at Aire River campsites we had lunch,  filled water bottles and adjusted boots (I probably shouldn't have played with my boots as feet swell when walking). The group got fairly spread out over the previous section and Lib and I were the 3rd and 4th people in to the camp-site (a lot of the others had stopped on the way to have lunch but we decided to push on to get to the bus before having our lunch).

 

The final leg of today's walk started with a hill climb then a walk along the cliff tops. This was the best coastal walking for the day. Lush vegetation,  great views and towards the end an amazing escarpment high above us. The bus was waiting for us at Castle Cove car park. We got back to Bimbi Park at 1800. Lib and I are a bit sunburnt and I have a sore ankle. A couple of panadols and bio freeze should sort that for tomorrow. 

Day 2 - Shelly Beach to Point Franklin

20.5 Km

A really stormy night with gale force winds, hail and heavy rain.  We didn't sleep very well as a result; I was expecting a tree to come through the roof or to have the roof wind damaged.  The whole cabin shook. We were getting concerned about today's walk.

  

Breakfast at 0700 (really good porridge) and we made our lunches for today. Onto the bus at about 0815 and we arrived back where we finished up yesterday. It rained during breakfast but as we got towards today's start there were patches of blue sky. 

  

We headed off just before 0900. We went down to and crossed over Elliot River (the term river is a bit of a stretch as it more like a creek). It was an easy crossing and no wet boots. Quick celebration at crossing the 'river' then we started the accent up to Elliot River camping ground. A challenging climb but it did have some good stone steps that helped.

  

  

From the camping ground the track heads inland on old logging tracks looping around for about 12Km to the beach at Blanket Bay. The inland loop was easy going although boggy in places and goes through a Forrest of large eucalypt and there were a few more koala sightings. 

  

Lunch spot at Blanket Bay Campsite
  

  

Blanket Bay is a really beautiful Bay. The surf today was smashing in with a swell of about 3 to 4m. We met the bus at the camping ground and had lunch. It was a great place to have a break.

  

After lunch a couple of walkers opted to finish the day there and jumped back on the bus. The rest of us continued on up the gradual hill and around the top of the cliffs. The scrub here was coastal eucalypt and a few tree ferns. The track wound around for about another 4Km to the beach at Parker Inlet.

  

  

  

We crossed the Parker River (a lot trickier than crossing the Elliot River) but none of its ended up with really wet boots. The next hill for the day was a big one and not a pleasant experience. It was steep and most of the stone steps were not spaced well. We met the bus again at the top and two more of us opted for the bus rather than finish the last couple of Km.

  

The final couple of Km was an easy walk following the coast along the top of the cliffs. 

  

  

  

We met the bus at the Franklin Point car park just after 1600. We had coffee and soft drinks available. We got back to the accommodation at Bimbi Park at 1700.

  

The weather today was really kind to us. We only had a few short showers and the wind was not too bad near the coast. A far cry from the weather last night. 

  

Day One - Apollo Bay to Shelly Beach

9.6 Km

  

Early start. Walked the few hundred metres to meet tour group at the National Gallery of Victoria at about 0710. There was 9 of us being collected from here. The bus arrived on time at 0715 and we were on our way to Anglesea at 0730.

   

Arrived in Anglesea at 0900 and met the other 5 walkers. True to form the weather changed and it started to drizzle. Coffee from the General Store and group intros at the information centre before heading off just before 1000 to Apollo Bay.

  

Quick photo stop at the memorial arch. Arrived in Apollo Bay at 1130. Photos taken, bought a map booklet and more drizzle with a cold wind. Headed off again at 1200.

  

Memorial Arch

  

Start of Great Ocean Walk
   

After a quick briefing on today's walk and collecting our lunch we started the walk at 1230. A short walk through a caravan park and then we were alongside the coast. Just our luck about 30 minutes into the walk it started to hail, small hail but it was wind driven and had a good sting to it. 10 minutes later the weather was fine but it changed about every 20 minutes. We stopped for lunch on a beach at the 2.5Km mark (there was a number of beach walks today). 

 

  

Heading uphill after lunch we had a close encounter with a koala in a ti-tree alongside the track. The track wound it's way up through an area of tree ferns and a lot of native scrub. There were quite a few steps but they were at a good spacing and fairly easy to use. 

  

Lunch stop on the beach
  

Lee the Guide hamming it up

 

The days walk ended at a car park at the top of the hill at about 1440.  The bus was waiting for us with tea, coffee, drinks and nibbles (very nice to see the bus).

 

We were driven to our accommodation at Bimbi Park and we were settled into our cabin by 1600. The cabin is quite roomy with kitchenette and ensuite. 

  

We had time in hand before dinner so prepped for tomorrow and settled into the accommodation (we are here for 3 nights). It hailed again this time good sized stones and it looked like snow. 

  

  

  

Quest Southbank Apartments

Night before the walk. 

 

We caught a taxi from home at about 1600 and checked into the Quest Southbank. Taxi trip was good even though it was a bit of a fun park ride at times. 

 

We chose the Quest as it is close to the National Gallery of Victoria which is where we will be collected tomorrow morning for the trip to Apollo Bay. We have been upgraded at the Quest and have a 2 bedroom apartment (over kill for 1 night).

 

We had dinner in Southbank at the Bear Brass. The prices in this area are outrageous; then again it has been a very long time since we've been into the CBD.

 

It'll be an early start tomorrow.